Tag Archives: poverty

Travelinds Hero: Christopher

September 2016

Kenya is home to a vibrant throng spanning 42 languages that brings cultural diversity to the forefront of this interesting nation. One such character was Mr. Christopher Odinga.

His sand sculpture of a smiling lion rolling on the sand drew us in to his life story and he happily shared his tale of fortitude.  Sitting awkwardly next to his crutches, laid carefully beside him on the sand, he works the sand with his hands and a trowel, paying attention to each groove and surface as he smooths it, fluffs it, cuts it and moulds it. His eyes smile as he talks, vigilant of the waves nearby that will remove all trace of his work in a few hours’ time.20160905_153204

“I am a sculptor now, but I was meant to be a lawyer.  I had enough grades to enter law school but that didn’t work out.  Now I’m too old and I have a family to take care of – my wife can’t work, she has no education.”

When probed a little more, he shared the story of how he came to be here, a polio sufferer with minimal use of his legs, two small children and far from his birthplace near Lake Victoria on the opposite side of the country. “When I was three, I became sick, but my parents thought it was malaria because many people get malaria in that place.  They were illiterate and the walk to any clinic was three days away, so they never took me for any inoculations as a baby.  They left me to recover on my own but when I was too sick to move, they made the journey to seek help but arrived too late to help me.”

He looks a little sad as he describes the transition that he was forced to make as a little boy, sent to Kisumu to a ‘special’ school where others like him were educated and looked after by the Salvation Army.  Pride for his grades and his hard work despite mounting obstacles, he describes his academic achievements and how he was primed to enter law school and pursue his dream at a time when the newly independent Kenya was growing up.  His eyes flash as he indignantly says, “But then the Kenyan management became greedy and corrupt and they took all the money and ran away.  Me and many other people like me were left with nothing, no home, no food, no work and no future.  That is when I started to move towards the bigger cities, using some skills taught at school to create sculptures and oil paintings to make income.”

Me and many other people like me were left with nothing, no home, no food, no work and no future.

The sand lion has pointy triangle teeth and he seems to be grinning up at the sky, his tail bound to flick up at any moment.  Christopher starts to dig a trench around the base, perhaps extending the short life of the grinning lion before the tide sweeps him away.

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“It’s okay.  I met my wife and we have two children.  I make enough money sometimes to buy them clothes and food. But if you have any things you do not want to take home, please give them to me – toothpaste, soap, mosquito repellent for my children, anything.”

His hands stop and he looks down the beach assessing how hopeful his day’s takings look from the number of tourists heading towards him – there are only two.  One ignores him and keeps walking, the other looks at the sculpture, smiles and gives him a few shillings.

“I also do paintings.” He rolls out a small canvas from his tatty backpack.  It is a scene of zebra in front of Mount Kilimanjaro.  “Sometimes tourists can show me their photos and I paint it for them.”  He even frames it, he tells me, and the price is negotiable.  He will make it perfect, he says.  “I paint the picture from memory, in my home, and I will bring it back to you next day.  Pay if you like it.  I do oil painting. Do you have a photo I can paint for you?”

Yes, we did.  Our trip to the Masaai Mara is now forever immortalised by Christopher’s incredible talent – and he mashed two of our pictures to capture our memories in one beautiful piece with acacias, the plains, the wildebeest and the Mara River.  What a privilege to be able to support this man who “hates to beg” and takes pride in his work.  He may be a masterful storyteller, but he delivered on his promise and the look of appreciation in his eyes reflected genuine gratitude as we exchanged our painting for cash.20160903_125816

Do you have any photographs that Christopher can paint for you?  Find him on Facebook next time you are in Diani Beach, Ukunda!

Tiwi Beach

August 2016

We arrived at Ukunda Airport (Diani) having been warned of blistering heat and humidity; and told to definitely wear shorts and leave the jackets at home. As soon as we landed, however, it started raining and stayed wonderfully cool for the whole two weeks we were in Diani.  Daily rain showers kept things fresh, settling the dusty surrounds and covering the landscape in a lather of clouds against the harsh equatorial sun.

The taxi driver kindly took us shopping (at the supermarket) so that we could fill up our grocery bags and then we headed over to Sand Island Cottages on Tiwi Beach.

Surprise! Turtles!

Arriving on the first day at Sand Island in the pouring rain, we were excitedly told that green turtles were hatching, so naturally we ignored the torrential downpour, left our groceries in the taxi, and ran to watch the stragglers, as they tenaciously found their way to the blue ocean in front of our cottages. Drenched and happy, it’s something I will never forget – what a special thing to witness this brave fight to survive against all odds. And it happened twice during our stay!

The cute little creatures had to fight against sand, grass, dogs, birds, a hungry octopus, hunting fish and all sorts of other obstacles to freedom; just so that they could reach the big wide ocean beyond the reef and face the real dangers of life underwater.  The survivors of this family will then head straight back to Tiwi Beach in a few years time to carry on the generations of green turtles and the cycle of life.

Nest 8Baby Turtle

Nelly the Elephant (Twitter: @Nelly_Says) celebrated as the last baby turtle finally reached the ocean!
Nelly the Elephant (Twitter: @Nelly_Says) celebrated as the last baby turtle finally reached the ocean!

Saidi is the turtle conservationist for Tiwi Beach and kept us well-informed about the turtle protection efforts here.  Smiling and friendly, he carries a great respect for the turtles and strives to educate everyone he meets about their qualities and needs.  The training he received has given him the skills and conservation knowledge he needs to save Tiwi’s population of turtles. He relocates the nests to safer distances from the sea (or from people) and monitors the progress of the nests that are labelled and recorded by Watamu Turtles.

Sand Island Cottages

These quaint beach cottages are a great choice for a quiet getaway and a couple of days (or weeks) of rest.  North of Diani, it’s about a fifteen minute drive from Diani Beach and well away from the hustle and bustle of the town itself.

Named for the sand island that appears during low tide, Sand Island Cottages are the perfect location to see the coastline open up as thousands of birds descend of Sand Island to pick up the crabs and sea titbits left exposed by the receding waters. Watch out for the abundance of spiky sea urchins when you walk across the bay!

The self-catering cottages were comfortable, airy and clean, with views of the beach and shady verandahs with soft cushions to nuzzle into a gripping book from their library (all proceeds from the small book rental “fee” go towards providing books for the local schools in the area – initiative I thought was fantastic!) Our friends and family stayed in Simu, Pono and Tewa.

Sand Island Cottages

Tiwi beach was clean and pretty much private to those staying at the handful of resorts along the shore – no beach boys or tour operators in sight. The beautiful Kenyan lady at the resort, with her colourful outfits and a smiling baby strapped to her back, kept us in abundant supply of samoosas and ‘mandazi’ when we needed it; and there were people to buy fish or kikois from if we needed.

Mandazi is something like the South African ‘vetkoek’ (fat cake, in English) and is a mouthful of deep fried, doughy deliciousness somewhere in between a donut and a bread roll.

The staff and management were professional, attentive, kind and friendly – it felt like we were part of the family and being looked after with great care.  Arty and Cheryl provide excellent service and information about the area,  being happily available whenever needed and concerned with bettering both the environment and the community around them.

One initiative we like is the Book Hire system at Sand Island Cottages. There is a library of books available for rent by guests, with a small fee paid and a deposit that you get back when you return the book.  The small amount kept by Sand Island goes towards providing books and materials for the local schools in Ukunda that need it the most.  So get reading!

Kenyan Hospitality

Running through the local communities along the beach road under the watchful eye of some ancient Baobabs, it was easy to see why the Kenyan people are known for their smiles and friendly greetings.  Those commuting to work on their bicycles gave a friendly wave and a happy “Jambo, jambo!”; and there was always singing somewhere on the wind.

There are locals around to lend your support to: like turtle-volunteer Saidi who also has a small wooden boat in which he takes guests to see Starfish Bay.  We hired the congenial Ali for the week and he cooked superbly for us, providing freshly baked bread rolls, scrumptious curries and Kenyan-Western fusion dishes.  The favourite of the week was difficult to choose, but it was either the hand-pressed coconut milk fish curry with chipatis or the delicious American-style pancakes he whipped out; or was it the daily supply of hot, home-baked bread rolls?

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We miss Tiwi Beach already!